A Guide to Artificial
Incubation
By Julie Gabbard
Introduction
The first traces of artificial incubation were found in China around 3000 b.c. If visiting Egypt today, you can still see how their incubators called manals operate. These monuments were built over 4000 years ago for artificial incubation. Each manal included a number of furnaces heated with the dehydrated manure of camels. Some had capacities of nearly 90,000 eggs! Candling was achieved by the skillful direction of a sunbeam. Proper temperature was monitored by the contact of the shell with the eyelid. Specialists in this profession passed down their successful principles and trade secrets from Father to Son. Surprisingly, in spite of these crude methods, the results of these hatchings were quite successful. 1
Acquiring hatching eggs has never
been easier. The resources are vast and hatching eggs can be found as close as
your own hen house, through online auction sites and specialized poultry websites. Incubating your own hatching eggs can be very
rewarding and enjoyable. Proper technique and planning will reward you with an
incubator full of peeping chicks.
*Note* The following instructions are intended for
the incubation of chicken eggs. The
fundamental principles for incubation preparation and technique are the same
regardless of the type of poultry you are attempting to hatch. The length of incubation, as well as
temperature and humidity requirements can be more or less depending on the
species. Please refer to the tables at
the end of this e-book for general temperature and humidity requirements for
other types of poultry. The guidelines
below are generally intended for (but not exclusive to) the novice who will
most likely begin with a simple table top incubator.
Chapter 1} Egg Selection and Preparation
Local Hatching Eggs
* When
hatching your own chicken eggs or eggs purchased locally, choose eggs that are
of a good shape and quality. Eggs that
are misshapen, porous, cracked or excessively dirty will most likely not hatch
successfully and should be discarded. Eggs that are only slightly dirty may be
very gently cleaned with warm water. Be
careful not to scrub hard enough to remove the protective coating (bloom) from
the egg. Removing the bloom from the egg
shell may result in bacteria entering the egg and causing contamination. Store your eggs pointy end down in an egg
carton or hatching tray.
* Chicken
eggs may be gathered for up to 7 days prior to incubation. After 7 days, viability (having the ability
to live and grow) begins to decline. Other breeds of poultry may be
successfully stored for longer periods of time.
Chicken eggs can be stored for longer periods of time but careful
measures must be taken with regards to temperature during storage and diligent
turning of the eggs. For best results, the general rule of thumb is to store
eggs for 7 days or less.
* Eggs
stored for incubation purposes should be kept cool at approximately 45-55
degrees and turned twice daily. Keeping eggs cool slows the evaporation and
aging process within the egg. Turning the eggs during storage can extend their
shelf life and improve your results.
*Tip*
A thick book placed under the end of a carton (or flat) of eggs (producing a 45
degree angle) makes for a quick and easy way to turn your eggs. When you are ready to turn, simply remove the
book and place it under the opposite end. This works nicely and lowers the risk
of dropping the eggs while hand turning each one.
* When
you are ready to incubate, move the eggs from cool storage into a warmer room
and allow them to slowly (4 to 6 hours) come to room temperature (70
degrees). Cold eggs placed into a
warm, humid incubator will become covered in condensation. This may increase
the possibility of bacterial contamination.
Shipped
Hatching Eggs
When discussing shipped hatching eggs with an
individual, I always try to remind them of the risk involved when purchasing
eggs that will travel through the mail and the difference between an infertile
egg and a nonviable egg. Shipped hatching eggs may travel a great distance and
experience excessive variations in climate, including temperature, humidity and
pressure changes that may occur with fluctuations in altitude. These
conditions, coupled with the possibility of simple human error with the
handling of your package, can lessen the likelihood of a successful hatch.
* Because of these factors, a perfectly
fertile and viable egg can be packed into a box, shipped to you and arrive in a
nonviable state. These clear
eggs (no development) are seemingly infertile when cracked open upon completion
of incubation, however, were in fact quite fertile and became nonviable from
exposure to extreme conditions. With careful preparation and correct incubation
technique you can improve your chances of successfully hatching your own chicks
from eggs that have been shipped through the mail.
* To
increase your chances of success, a couple of days prior to the arrival of your
shipped hatching eggs, prepare and turn on your incubator. Be certain that your
incubator is maintaining proper and consistent temperature and humidity before
your eggs are added. We will discuss this further in Chapter 2.
* When
your eggs arrive, carefully unwrap each egg and inspect them. Discard any broken or cracked eggs and notify
your supplier of the damage. If the eggs
are a bit dirty, a light and gentle rinsing under warm water will not harm
them. Very fine sandpaper may also be used to gently buff dirt away if
preferred, but extreme care must be taken to not remove the protective bloom
from the egg.
* Place
the eggs pointy end down into an egg carton or egg hatching tray and store them
unmoved for 18 to 24 hours at room temperature (70 degrees) prior to placing in
your preheated incubator. This “resting” period is important
and can greatly increase your chances of a successful hatch by allowing the air
cell within the egg to settle back into proper position.
Important}
It is generally agreed upon, that a successful outcome for shipped hatching
eggs is when 40%-50% of the set eggs result in live chicks. Knowing what to reasonably expect when
purchasing shipped hatching eggs can make your experience much more pleasurable
and helps to ease disappointment.
Understanding and accepting the reality that even the most experienced
person has unsuccessful hatches, will help avoid the disappointment that we all have felt from a failed attempt at hatching shipped
eggs. You must be able to accept the risks involved with the purchase of
shipped eggs to have a positive experience.
Thankfully,
successful hatches from shipped eggs reward our diligence, offering students a
fascinating education in embryology and poultry enthusiasts the opportunity to
obtain highly desired breeds or genetically diversified lineage that we may not
have been able to acquire otherwise.
Chapter 2} Preparing
your Incubator
There
are a wide variety of options when it comes to selecting an incubator. Basic and more economical foam incubators
(GQF Hova-Bator) Incubators
can be very successful and may be a perfect choice for the backyard flock
owner, hobbyist or school teacher. More
expensive units and cabinet type models (GQF Sportsman 1502, Brinsea Octagon
40) can cost considerably more but offer the options of nearly hands free
operation and monitoring as well as the ability to incubate larger quantities
of eggs at a time. Features such as
automatic turners, digital thermostat controls and forced air fans can save
considerable time, improve performance and increase hatch rates. The internet offers endless instructions for
building your own economical incubator from normal household items. With precision and practice, these units can
be quite successful. Regardless of the model you choose, incubation can be
accomplished successfully if you prepare and follow proper procedure. You can have very similar results with an inexpensive
incubator as you can with a larger more costly model. The inexpensive model will generally require more
work, practice and careful technique.
The more costly model will make the process easier for you. Guidelines
for preparation and technique are generally the same with all types.
2-3 days prior to setting your hatching eggs in
your incubator, you will need to make sure your unit and your automatic turner
(if applicable) are clean and sanitized.
The best antimicrobial product will be ineffective if your incubator is
excessively dirty. Water, detergent and elbow grease are your best defense
against bacteria. A simple bleach and water solution diluted to 10% works well
and is inexpensive. Allow yourself
plenty of ventilation and rinse thoroughly when using bleach as it can be
corrosive. There are also commercial sanitizers available (Tek-Trol) that work very well and are preferred by some.
Cleaning and sanitizing your incubator is crucial and will greatly increase
your chances of success.
* Your
incubator should be located in a room with a stable temperature (70 degrees F)
away from heavy drafts or direct heat and cold sources, such as sunlight or air
conditioner vents.
* If
you are using a foam incubator that came with a small thermometer, it is recommended
that you purchase another thermometer as a precaution, to confirm your
thermometers accuracy.
* A
small duo digital thermometer/hygrometer can be purchased inexpensively and will allow you to easily monitor both the
temperature and humidity levels in your incubator at a glance. Thermometer/Hygrometers If possible, place this within easy viewing
through the window of your unit (if applicable). This small investment can pay for itself with
one conserved hatch, should your original thermometer prove to be inaccurate, which
they often are.
* If
you are fortunate enough to have an incubator that is pre-set to the proper
temperature from the manufacturer such as the GQF “Genesis“ Hova-Bator, Genesis
you will not have to worry with setting or adjusting your thermostat. Likewise, incubators with digital and
electronic thermostats make temperature settings a snap. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for
setting these units. Smaller incubators will have a dial or knob that will
adjust your temperature up or down.
These dials are extremely sensitive to adjustments. Make very small adjustments and wait 3-5 hours
between additional modifications. Your incubator should maintain the proper
temperature without adjustments for 24-48 hours before your eggs are
added.
* The
temperature for still-air incubators (no fan) should be set to 101.5 to 102
degrees F.
The temperature in these units, sometimes
referred to as thermal flow, may fluctuate a bit more than units with fans.
ThermalFlow You should check your temperature at least twice daily. Temperature
readings for still-air units should be taken near the top of the egg due to the
stagnant air resting in layers, cooler at the bottom and warmer at the top. Too high of a temperature is more harmful
than too low.
* The
temperature for forced-air incubators (with fan) should be set to 99.5 to 100
degrees F. The fan can be to your advantage and seems to
make a considerable difference in the consistency of temperature and humidity
inside the unit. FanDriven If possible, I suggest
purchasing a unit with a forced air fan or upgrading your still-air unit and
purchasing a fan kit to add to your incubator. Too high of a temperature is
more harmful than too low.
* Ventilation
is crucial. The developing embryo is
a living organism that exchanges oxygen and carbon dioxide through the shell
during the incubation process. The amount of air exchange needed increases as
the embryo develops. The vents located in your incubator should be gradually
opened until they are fully opened the final three days of incubation. Please
remember, proper ventilation inside your incubator and throughout the room is
crucial. If the room where the incubator is located is small, keep the doors to
the room open to allow the free exchange of fresh air.
* Humidity
is equally important because
of the eggs porosity. If the water pan
or troughs (located in the bottom of some foam incubators) are filled with
water and cover at least half of the surface area of the floor of your
incubator, the humidity should be adequate for the first 18 days of incubation.
Ideally, the humidity inside of your incubator should be between 45% and 55%
for the first 18 days and between 65% and 75% for the remainder of the
incubation period. During the last
three days, adding a large sponge inside the incubator should increase the
surface area of the water enough to give the necessary boost to humidity. Exact
humidity levels are not crucial but trying to stay within these levels is
recommended. The lid should not be lifted during the last three days of
incubation unless absolutely necessary.
* Tip}
If you have a foam incubator and your vents are located on the top of your
unit, you can easily add water to your unit without lifting the lid. Place a large sponge directly under one of
the vent holes. Use a clean Turkey Baster
to squirt fresh water through the vent hole onto the sponge as needed for
additional humidity during the last three days.
Chapter 3} Setting the
Eggs
* Before
handling hatching eggs, it is always a good idea to wash your hands to help
prevent the spread of bacteria.
* Chicken
eggs take 21 days to hatch. Hatching eggs must
be turned for the first 18 days while in the incubator. If your incubator does not have an automatic
turner, you will need to mark each egg with an X on one side and an O on the
other. When the eggs are turned all the
Xs or Os should be face-up at the same time.
* Place
your eggs pointy end down in the automatic turner cups and turn it on. (Follow manufacturer’s
instructions for your unit) AutomaticTurner
* If
you do not have an automatic turner, lay the eggs down in your incubator with
the Xs face-up. Manual turning can be as
equally successful as mechanical turning if done regularly. Eggs should be
manually turned at least every 8 hours (e.g. 6:00 a.m., 2:00 p.m. and
10:00 p.m.). Regularity and careful handling are very important aspects to
establish favorable hatches.
Interesting
fact} Some people believe that turning
the eggs “exercises” the developing embryo or perhaps keeps the yolk from
“sticking” to the sides of the shell. Embryology
shows us this is most likely not so. The
albumen (white) of an egg contains virtually no fat particles and has gravity
near that of water. The yolk, however, has a high fat content. Fats have lower
gravities and float on water. The egg yolk tries to do the same thing -- float
on the albumen. If an egg is left in one position, the yolk tends to float
upward through the albumen toward the shell.
The
developing embryo always rests on top of the yolk. When an egg is turned, the
yolk turns in the albumen so
the embryo is again positioned on top of the yolk. Nature may do this so the
embryo is always in the best position to receive body heat from the mother hen.
If
the egg is not turned, the yolk tends to float upward toward the shell and
pushes the embryo nearer the shell. If the yolk raises enough, the developing
embryo is squeezed between the yolk and shell. The embryo can be damaged or
killed. Turning the egg causes the yolk to be repositioned away from the shell,
making it safe for the developing embryo. 2
* Once
your eggs have been placed in your incubator, you may have an initial decrease
in temperature. Resist the urge to
immediately adjust your thermostat. If
your incubator was maintaining proper temperature for 24-48 hours prior to
adding the eggs, it will adjust over the next several hours. Check the temperature
after 12-18 hours and make very small adjustments if needed, with waits
of 4-6 hours between each one.
* Mark
your calendar with the date the eggs were set, the day you should stop turning
and your hatch day.
* Add
water when needed to maintain proper humidity levels and check your temperature
twice daily for the first 18 days.
* Any
foul odor coming from your incubator should be dealt with immediately. Open your incubator and locate the bad
egg. A spoiled egg may be weeping or
small crystals may be seen on the shell.
Once you remove the egg, you will want to clean out the now empty egg cup
(if using an auto turner) if any liquid or residue from the egg is present. An
antibacterial wipe works well for this. If no visual evidence of spoilage is
present, gently lift each egg and place the large end close to your nose. A quick sniff will quickly expose the foul
smelling offender.
* Candling
may be done without harm on days 7, 14 and 18 to check for viability. After day
14, eggs found to be clear (showing no signs of development) may be
removed. A professional Candler may be purchased Candler
or a strong flashlight (Mini Maglite) also works well.
Tip:
Candling with the Mini-Maglite}In a dark room, wrap your fist tightly around
the lighted end of the small flashlight. Make a nickel sized circle with your
index finger and thumb, creating a cup for the egg to rest in. Rest the large end of the egg in the cup of
your index finger and thumb allowing the bright beam of light to penetrate up
through the egg. Spidery veining should be present in viable eggs.
Chapter 4} The final 3 days
* When
your eggs have been in the incubator for 18 days you will need to stop turning
them for the remaining three days of incubation.
* Remove
your eggs from the automatic turner (if applicable) and carefully set them
aside in cartons or flats while removing the turner from your incubator.
* Add
water to your incubator at this time, completely filling the troughs in the
bottom of your unit, adding a wet sponge (s) or an additional container of
water. Be cautious when adding a
container of water that your chicks are not able to fall into it and drown. The
best option for increasing the humidity will depend on the type of incubator
you are using. You will learn with time
which method works best for your particular unit based on the outcome of your
hatches.
* Return
the eggs to your incubator, laying them down on their sides on the mesh wire
provided with your incubator (if applicable).
You may also place a paper towel down on the wire to help with clean up
later, if desired
* Do
not close vent holes while attempting to increase humidity. Chicks must
have proper ventilation to hatch successfully.
Day
21
* Once
piping of the shells is present (a small hole pecked out of the shell when a
chick first breaks through) lower the temperature of your incubator to 98 degrees.
* If
possible, try not opening the lid of your incubator until your hatch is
complete.
* Chicks
can safely remain in the incubator for up to 24 hours before needing to be
removed and relocated to your prepared brooder. They should be completely dry
before they are moved.
* It
can be several hours after a chick pips the shell before it completely
hatches. Try to avoid helping the chicks out of their shells
when at all possible.
* Late
hatches can happen and waiting until 24 days has passed before removal of the
remaining eggs is suggested.
* Valuable
information can be gained from examining the contents of the eggs that did not
hatch. We suggest doing this outside
as this can get messy and sometimes quite smelly. As distasteful as this can be, your
findings can help guide you through your learning experience and your
discoveries may help you correct possible errors during your next attempt at
incubation.
Chapter 5} Tables and References
Incubation Tables
Comments
Post a Comment